Setup

• Puppy off leash. Paw pad placed where puppy will be successful. Bait bag full of rewards.

Procedure

1. Have puppy stand on the paw pad. Mark and reward. As puppy chews, take one small step forward with the right leg. Slightly pivot on the left leg and immediately return. Mark and reward. Movement must be very small initially.
2. Repeat gradually increasing distance. Keep the left leg next to the paw pad and pivot on it — less distracting to the puppy. High rate of reinforcement as handler moves in and out of position.
3. Next, pivot in front of the puppy, marking and rewarding before stepping back. Repeat several times.
4. Once solid, handler may take a step backward while facing puppy. Mark, return to front, deliver reward. Do not rush increasing distance.
5. Gradually increase time between rewards. If puppy becomes restless, the position is being held too long.
6. Once holding position, handler can step forward, sideways or backward. Gradually increase number of steps over several sessions.
7. Once handler is certain puppy will stay, add the verbal cue "Stay" and hand cue as handler steps away. Cues are added AFTER the behavior begins to take shape.

Procedure

Same setup and positioning as Class 1 ground tether. Area Leader or assistant places a variety of enticing distractions (people, food, sticks, leaves, balls) on the floor outside puppy's reach. As distraction level increases, maintain the mark-and-reward system for loose leash. Progress to higher-value distractions only when puppy consistently demonstrates a loose leash.

Setup

• Assistant wearing a bait bag with same rewards as handler. Puppy off leash. Paw pad.

Caution

If puppy comes off the paw pad to get distraction, WAIT for puppy to choose to step back on. If too distracted, pick puppy up and reset behind the pad. If puppy continues to come off, return to previous session and work on standing duration.

Procedure

1. Handler marks and rewards puppy for standing on paw pad for 10–12 seconds between marks.
2. While puppy is being rewarded, assistant approaches 2–3 feet away with food still in bait bag.
3. Handler keeps rewarding. While puppy chews, assistant slowly squats down. Rate of reinforcement must increase. If puppy moves off pad, assistant stands up and ignores puppy. Handler picks puppy up and resets.
4. While puppy is being rewarded, assistant gets food out of bait bag. Handler marks and rewards rapidly while puppy watches the food being removed (very distracting). Assistant closes hand over food after marker word is said.
5. Once assistant has food in open hand, handler marks and rewards puppy for not leaving the pad. Allow puppy to chew before assistant opens hand again.
6. Slowly increase duration between marks and rewards.
7. After practice, give puppy a mental/get busy break before continuing.
8. Continue with assistant placing food on floor. Be prepared to cover food if puppy tries to get it.
9. If successful ignoring food for 5–6 seconds, assistant can pick up kibble and drop it from 2–3 inches above floor. Gradually increase drop height as puppy succeeds.
10. Once puppy ignores food dropped 2–3 feet away, handler can start dropping kibble in front of pup (as if accidentally dropped). Rapidly mark and reward for staying on pad.

Setup

• No paw pad. Quiet room without distractions.

Procedure

1. Allow puppy to perform the sit in front of the raiser sideways for ease of positioning.
2. Gain puppy's attention with food in hand. Multiple pieces stashed for pezzing in sit position.
3. A standing puppy will move forward into sit if the lure is slowly moved forward and slightly above the puppy's head. Food must be on the puppy's nose so puppy can follow.
4. It's okay initially for the puppy to take several steps forward before sitting. Feed the whole time puppy is moving into position.
5. Once in sit position, deliver several treats.
6. Have puppy break from sit. If puppy won't move, lure forward a few steps before restarting.
7. Once puppy easily moves into sit, transition to a hand signal (right hand, palm up, moving upward). If using hand signal without food, use marker word "Nice!"
8. Once responding to hand signal, slowly move it toward a more natural position away from puppy's nose.

Setup

• Quiet location with limited distractions. Puppy off leash. A nonskid surface. Several treats. Paw pad.

Procedure

1. Review standing on the paw pad as done in previous weeks.
2. With puppy in heel position standing on pad, lure into sit. Hold kibble under your thumb with palm flat. Slowly raise hand up and slightly forward away from puppy's nose. Puppy should naturally follow and bring back feet forward into sit. Release treat when puppy sits.
3. Once in sit position, rapidly reward for 10 seconds. If puppy breaks the sit, stop rewards.
4. After 10 seconds, stop rewards and wait for puppy to offer a stand. If puppy doesn't stand, lure into stand.
5. Work on lengthening duration in sit by increasing time between rewards.

Introducing Stand Hand Cue

1. Use right hand in vertical position with fingers pointing to puppy's left, kibble in palm secured with thumb.
2. Slowly move hand 2 inches forward, encouraging puppy to stand. Front feet must remain on pad while back feet move into stand.
3. Replace lure with verbal cue "stand" before giving the hand cue.

Setup

• Paw pad will NOT be used for introduction to down. A non-skid surface. Puppy off leash. Bait bag with several treats.

Procedure

1. Puppy may be in front of handler sideways for ease. Handler may need to kneel or crouch.
2. With puppy in sit position and multiple pieces of kibble in hand, get puppy's attention. Lure must be kept on puppy's nose.
3. Slowly move hand in a straight line to the floor. As puppy lowers body, reward. (If lure is too far in front, puppy will stand. If moved too fast, puppy can't follow.)
4. Once in down position, give many treats in rapid succession.
5. After 10 seconds, lure back up into sit. Repeat.
6. Once multiple successes from sit position, lure into down from a stand as well.
7. Introduce the down hand cue (right hand, flat palm facing down in a downward motion) after several successful sessions. Kibble can be tucked under thumb for initial hand signals.

Setup

• Quiet controlled environment. Suitable distractions. Puppy on leash.

Procedure

1. Handler stands holding leash. Leash should be short enough for puppy to feel pressure if it moves away, but long enough that collar is loose when puppy stands next to handler (~2 feet). Position is not important.
2. Tether leash to left leg, level with puppy's neck. If small puppy, bend over.
3. Mark and reward: puppy stops pulling (increase duration); puppy notices distraction but chooses not to pull; puppy looks at handler when distraction is present.
4. Deliver rewards close to handler's leg to help puppy feel loose collar.
5. If puppy tries to pull, wait for release, then immediately mark and reward. Once puppy is consistently choosing loose collar, mark only a fully loose leash.
6. Area Leader places small distraction on floor outside puppy's reach. Mark and reward for loose leash. Once consistent, increase distraction level.

Prerequisites

• Puppy must have completed the first 5 weeks of Puppy K.
• Puppy demonstrates understanding of all behaviors taught in class.
• Handler must be confident and understand all protocols.

Procedure

1. Place paw pad close to the car before removing the puppy.
2. Get puppy out of car and immediately walk puppy into position on the paw pad.
3. Mark and reward for standing calmly on the paw pad.
4. After several marks for calm behavior, cue puppy into other positions (sit, down). This sets the tone for a calm, focused puppy.
5. When successful near the car, pick up the paw pad and move closer to distractions. Keep in mind — success is key and short distances are crucial.
6. Mark and reward for calm behavior, then cue for other positions.
7. If puppy cannot remain calm, retreat to where the last successes were achieved and repeat.
8. If successful, continue moving short distances closer to distractions.
9. If puppy cannot remain calm and focused, the session should end and the puppy should go home to work on impulse control with less distraction.
10. Some puppies may not leave the parking lot — that is okay! Accept the puppy's successes and limitations.
11. Raisers may need to spend the next month working on approaching all the distractions that occur at a meeting before getting into the actual meeting. The puppy must be calm and focused at all meetings.
12. The puppy must be successful! There is no point in pushing beyond the puppy's limits. If the handler becomes frustrated or embarrassed, the puppy will feed off it. The raiser must remain calm.