Goal Behavior

Puppy stands with front feet on paw-pad and maintains a standing position in a straight line alongside the handler.

Why

This is the foundation training for the heel position.

Setup

• In a quiet location, place paw pad next to a wall that will be on the puppy’s left. The ideal place is a wall opening or corner so the puppy can see to the left. Paw pad must to be perpendicular (short edge) to the wall.
• Puppy must be off leash for this exercise.
• Handler stands beside the paw pad facing forward with their feet positioned so the front edge of the paw pad is touching the mid-line of the left foot. Handler’s feet need to be squared and together. This will make it so the puppy’s front feet will be in line with the handlers pant seam.

Luring puppy onto paw pad

1. Standing 1-2 feet behind paw pad, while holding the puppy in left arm, load right hand with several treats. Place the puppy on the floor,and transfer treats to left hand.
2. With treats loaded in left hand lure the puppy forward to the paw-pad and position your feet alongside as described above.
3. As soon as the puppy places one front foot on the paw pad begin pezzing. Release one treat from your left hand in rapid secession. The puppy’s second foot will follow onto the paw pad as pezzing occurs.
   ‍Caution: It is very common to drop food while pezzing. It is imperative that the puppy does NOT get the food; therefore, keep the puppy busy eating from one hand while you pick up the dropped reward with your other hand.
4. Before you run out of treats, resupply the feeding hand (left) with more treats using your right hand. Do not move the feeding hand away from puppy as the puppy is likely to follow the food.
5. While puppy has both feet on paw pad, continue pezzing to keep puppy engaged and in place for 10-15 seconds.
6. Gently pick puppy up and place him/her about a foot behind the paw-pad to repeat the procedure.
7. Lure the puppy back onto the paw pad and repeat procedure.
8. Several repetitions should be done before ending the session. Keep in mind the puppy’s engagement, maturity level and food interest. If puppy is unsuccessful immediately end the session.
9. When training is finished, remove the paw pad so puppy has no access to it. Small breaks of holding the puppy can be given but a puppy may need a 10-minute break to busy and get a drink, and chill. Session can be repeated after.

Offering to step on to the Paw Pad without the use of the lure

1. Review previous procedure (luring) one time to remind the puppy what the expectation is. Pick up the puppy after review.
2. Place puppy about a foot behind the paw pad while the handler steps into position beside the paw pad and wait to see if puppy will offer to step onto the paw pad. If the puppy does, mark with “Nice!” and reward with a treat. And begin pezzing.
3. If puppy doesn’t offer stepping onto the paw pad, you may mark and reward any movement towards the paw-pad, shaping the behavior. The puppy will quickly learn any movement towards the paw pad will get him a reward.
4. If puppy appears to not understand the desired behavior,you might need practice luring once again.

Moving away from pezzing through direct delivery of treats

1. Place puppy behind the paw pad and wait for him to put his 2 feet on the paw pad. Hold several treats in right hand, for an immediate mark and reward when his feet hit the paw pad.
2. While puppy is on the paw pad and chewing previous treat,pull hand away from puppy’s nose by 3-4 inches, if he remains still on the paw pad mark with “Nice!”, deliver a treat and move hand away again.
3. As long as puppy is able to remain still with hand moving away, increase distance between hand and puppy’s nose. Slowly start to stand up as you increase distance.
4. Pay attention to your treat hand. It must be in front of the puppy’s nose, or slightly to the left when delivering a treat. Puppy’s head must NOT curl in front of the handler’s left leg. If puppy’s head does curl, check placement of your treat delivery.
5. Continue to increase duration between marks when you feel puppy is able to stand still. After marking the behavior, begin direct delivery of the reward. There should be no food held in the hand. Your right hand must be passive at your side, NOT in the bait bag.
6. Some puppies will pick this up quickly, others may need four or five sessions before they understand and have the patience to stand still while waiting for the reward.
7. Start reinforcing the puppy intermittently, one time after 1-2 seconds, another after 3-4 seconds. This will help keep the puppy engaged in the game.
8. Paw pad should be moved off of the wall 1-2 inches at a time so the puppy does not become reliant on the wall to keep its body in a straight line. If puppy starts to swing its rear end out, check placement of delivery of reward. Often times feeding the puppy with its head to the left will correct the positioning.

Goal Behavior

The puppy chooses not to pull against the ground tether and keep a loose leash, while facing a mild distraction, such as food or a person engaging the puppy.

Why

This is the beginning of impulse control

Setup

• Puppy on leash
• Bait bag with plenty of treats

Get into Position

1. Handler stands firmly on the leash with the ball of the foot. Leash needs to be short enough so the puppy feels pressure if it moves away from the handler, but long enough that the collar will be loose when the puppy stands next to the handler, about 2 feet in length. Position is not important for this exercise.
2. Handler must stay in a stationary position and allow the puppy to test the ground tether.

Mark and reward the puppy for the following behavior

Keep in mind, rewards should be delivered close to the handler’s legs to help the puppy feel the loose collar.

• Not pulling on the collar or leash.
• Looking at the handler .
  
• If puppy tries to pull away from the ground tether, wait for the puppy to release the pressure, immediately mark and reward. Once the puppy is choosing to maintain a fully loose collar, handler should only mark a fully loose leash and collar.
• AL or assistant places a small distraction (a few kibble,or toy) on the floor outside of the puppy’s reach. This distraction should be enough to make the puppy to pull but not get excited. As soon as the puppy releases the pressure immediately mark and reward the puppy. If puppy remains with a loose collar, continue to reward intermittently. Keep practicing until the puppy shows understanding of a loose leash.
• Once puppy continues to offer a loose leash with a small distraction increase the level of distractions (example, leaves, sticks, toilet paper, socks, high value food, etc.)

Goal

Puppy is calm and relaxed while being physically touched on every inch of body.  

Why

Puppy is comfortable being handled.

Set up

• Puppy off leash

Procedure

1. Sit down and have your puppy between your legs. Slow long strokes will calm the puppy.
2. Start at the head. Massage their gums and teeth.  
3. Nose: touch it.
4. Eyes: look at them, gently touch around them.  
5. Ears: massage, smell, and place fingers in them.  
6. Massage down the puppy’s neck.  
7. Front legs: Hold each leg out at the elbow (this is practice for blood draws). Feel and massage their toes and feet while their legs are stretched out.
8. Gently roll the puppy onto their side.
9. Massage puppy’s body and back.
10. Stroke the puppy's belly.
11. Back leg: Massage one back leg, toes, and feet.  
12. Roll the puppy to the other side.  
13. Massage their body and back.  
14. Massage the other back leg, toes, and feet.  
15. Feel all the way down the tail.  
16. Calmly release the puppy to get up.  

Goal

Puppy remains in a standing position on the paw pad while the handler moves out of position, away from the puppy.

Why

This introduces self-control and is the foundation for the stay command.

Set Up

• Puppy off leash
• Paw pad placed where puppy will be successful at keeping a straight line, i.e. on the wall or away from the wall  
• Bait bag full of rewards

Procedure

1. Have the puppy stand on the paw pad. Mark and reward. As the puppy is chewing the reward, the handler should take one small step forward with the right leg. Slightly pivot on the left leg and immediately return to the original position. Mark and reward. The movement needs to be so small that the puppy barely sees the movement.
2. Repeat the small step procedure several times, gradually increasing the distance of your step. Keep the left leg next to the paw pad and just pivot on it. This is less distracting to the puppy. A high rate of reinforcement should be delivered as the handler is moving in and out of position.
3. Next, the handler pivots in front of the puppy, marking and rewarding before stepping back into position. Repeat several times.
4. If the puppy is solid on the paw pad while the handler is pivoting in front of the puppy, the handler may take a step backward while facing the puppy. All of this movement should be done while the puppy is chewing his previous reward. Mark, then move back to the position in front of the puppy and deliver a reward. Repeat several times. Do not rush to increase the distance from the puppy. The puppy needs a strong history of reinforcement for staying on the paw pad while the handler is moving. This will help the puppy realize that remaining on the paw pad will result in food.
5. The time between rewards should gradually increase while the handler is still close to the puppy. If the puppy becomes restless or moves off the paw pad, the puppy is being asked to hold the position for too long.
6. Once the puppy is holding his position, the handler can then take a step forward, sideways or backward. The handler returns to position to reward the puppy, as long as he stays on the pad. Repeat several times. If the puppy is successful, the handler may gradually increase the number of steps. It might take several sessions for the puppy to be comfortable with the handler 6 feet away.
7. If the handler is certain the puppy will stay on the paw pad, then use of the verbal cue “stay” as well as the hand cue while the handler steps away. In positive training, the cues are added AFTER the behavior begins to take shape.

Goal

Puppy is able to keep a loose leash and collar around distractions while focused on the handler.

Why

Puppy continues to practice impulse control with more enticing distractions

Set Up

• Puppy on leash
• Bait bag with plenty of rewards

Get into Position

1. Handler stands firmly on the leash with the ball of the foot. Leash needs to be short enough so the puppy feels pressure if it moves away from the handler, but long enough that the collar will be loose when the puppy stands next to the handler, about 2 feet in length. Position is not important for this exercise.
2. Handler must stay in a stationary position and allow the puppy to test the ground tether.

Mark and reward the puppy for the following behavior

Keep in mind, rewards should be delivered close to the handler’s legs to help the puppy feel the loose collar.

• Not pulling on the collar or leash.
• Looking at the handler .
  
• If puppy tries to pull away from the ground tether, wait for the puppy to release the pressure, immediately mark and reward. Once the puppy is choosing to maintain a fully loose collar, handler should only mark a fully loose leash and collar.
• AL or assistant places a variety of enticing distractions (people, food, sticks, leaves, balls, etc) on the floor outside of the puppy’s reach. This distraction should be enough to make the puppy to pull but not get excited. As soon as the puppy releases the pressure immediately mark and reward the puppy. If puppy remains with a loose collar, continue to reward intermittently. Keep practicing until the puppy shows understanding of a loose leash.
• Once puppy continues to offer a loose leash with a small distraction increase the level of distractions (example, leaves, sticks, toilet paper, socks, high value food, etc.)

Goal

Puppy is calm and relaxed while being physically touched on every inch of body.  

Why

Puppy is comfortable being handled.

Set up

• Puppy off leash

Procedure

1. Sit down and have your puppy between your legs. Slow long strokes will calm the puppy.
2. Start at the head. Massage their gums and teeth.  
3. Nose: touch it.
4. Eyes: look at them, gently touch around them.  
5. Ears: massage, smell, and place fingers in them.  
6. Massage down the puppy’s neck.  
7. Front legs: Hold each leg out at the elbow (this is practice for blood draws). Feel and massage their toes and feet while their legs are stretched out.
8. Gently roll the puppy onto their side.
9. Massage puppy’s body and back.
10. Stroke the puppy's belly.
11. Back leg: Massage one back leg, toes, and feet.  
12. Roll the puppy to the other side.  
13. Massage their body and back.  
14. Massage the other back leg, toes, and feet.  
15. Feel all the way down the tail.  
16. Calmly release the puppy to get up.  

Goal

Puppy remains in heel position with 2 front feet on the paw pad when distraction is offered.

Why

Continued impulse control.

Set Up

• Assistant wearing a bait bag with the same rewards as the handler
• Puppy off leash
• Paw pad

Caution

If at any stage puppy comes off the paw pad to get the distraction, WAIT for the puppy to make the choice to step back on. If the puppy is too distracted by the assistant/food, pick the puppy up and reset behind the paw pad. If puppy continues to come off the paw pad, go back to the previous sessions and work on standing duration.

Procedure

1. The handler marks and rewards the puppy as in previous sessions, for standing on the paw pad for 10-12 seconds between the marks.
2. While the puppy is being rewarded for standing, the assistant approaches the front of the paw pad (facing the puppy) and stops approximately 2-3 feet away, with food distraction still in the bait bag.
3. The handler keeps rewarding the puppy. While the puppy is being rewarded and chewing, the assistant slowly starts to squat down toward the ground. The rate of reinforcement must increase for the puppy to be successful. Naturally the puppy will want to greet the assistant. If the puppy moves off the paw pad, the assistant stands up and ignores the puppy and the handler picks the puppy up and places him behind the paw pad. Mark and reward when the puppy is back on the paw pad. The assistant can start squatting after a few marks and rewards.  
4. While the puppy is being rewarded, the assistant gets a food distraction out of the bait bag. The handler must mark and reward rapidly while the puppy is watching the assistant remove food from their bait bag (this is very distracting).
5. Once the assistant has the food in their hand, open the hand so the puppy can see the food. The handler marks and rewards the puppy for not leaving the paw pad. Once the marker word has been said, the assistant closes their hand, covering up the food. Allow the puppy to chew and swallow the reward before the assistant opens the hand and offers the food distraction once again.
6. Slowly increase the duration between marks and rewards.
7. Practice several repetitions then give the puppy a mental/get busy break before the next step. After the break, continue the training session.
8. Jump start puppy by reviewing the food distraction with the assistant.
9. Now the puppy should be able to hold their position on the paw pad for 7-10 seconds. The assistant should place the food on the floor. Be prepared to cover the food so the puppy cannot reach the food. If the puppy scores, stop and review steps 1-8.
10. If the puppy is successful and ignores the food on the floor for 5-6 seconds, the assistant can pick up the kibble and drop it when their hand is 2-3 inches above the floor. The handler needs to mark and reward for success. Gradually the distance of the dropped kibble can increase, as long as the puppy is successfully ignoring the kibble.
11. Once the puppy is able to remain in position on the paw pad while food is dropped 2-3 feet off the ground by the assistant, the handler can start dropping a kibble in front of pup, as if the handler accidentally dropped a food reward. Rapidly mark and reward the puppy for staying in position on the paw pad but quickly progress to increasing duration after food is dropped.

Goal

Puppy learns to tuck his back feet forward into a sit position while his front feet remain stationary.

Why

Puppy can remain in heel position while changing from stand to sit.

Set Up

• No paw pad
• Quiet room without distractions

Procedure

1. The puppy will be allowed to perform the sit in front of the raiser sideways, for ease of helping the puppy maneuver into position.
2. With food in hand, the handler gains the puppy’s attention. Multiple pieces of food should be stashed in the handler’s hand so pezzing in the sit position can take place.
3. A standing puppy will move forward into the sit position if the lure is slowly moved forward and slightly above the puppy’s head. The food is to be on the puppy’s nose so that the puppy can easily follow the food lure.
4. When starting out, it is okay for the puppy to take several steps forward before moving its rear into a sitting position. Treats should be fed the whole time the puppy is moving into the sit position.
5. Once the puppy is in the sit position, several treats should be delivered to the puppy.
6. Have the puppy break from the sit position and start the sequence over. If the puppy will not move out of the sit position the handler may lure the puppy forward a few steps before starting the sequence.
7. Once the puppy is easily moving into the sit position, the use of a lure is no longer needed and can be signaled with the hand motion into the sit. The signal is done with the right-hand palm up, moving upward. If using the hand signal without food, the use of the marker word “Nice!” is used.
8. Once the puppy is responding to the hand signal, slowly move the signal away from the puppy’s nose towards a more natural position.

Goal

Puppy is calm and relaxed while being physically touched on every inch of body.  

Why

Puppy is comfortable being handled.

Set up

• Puppy off leash

Procedure

1. Sit down and have your puppy between your legs. Slow long strokes will calm the puppy.
2. Start at the head. Massage their gums and teeth.  
3. Nose: touch it.
4. Eyes: look at them, gently touch around them.  
5. Ears: massage, smell, and place fingers in them.  
6. Massage down the puppy’s neck.  
7. Front legs: Hold each leg out at the elbow (this is practice for blood draws). Feel and massage their toes and feet while their legs are stretched out.
8. Gently roll the puppy onto their side.
9. Massage puppy’s body and back.
10. Stroke the puppy's belly.
11. Back leg: Massage one back leg, toes, and feet.  
12. Roll the puppy to the other side.  
13. Massage their body and back.  
14. Massage the other back leg, toes, and feet.  
15. Feel all the way down the tail.  
16. Calmly release the puppy to get up.  

Goal

With front feet remaining on the paw pad, puppy will move from a stand to a sit, and a sit to a stand. Once the puppy is changing positions easily, the verbal cue “sit” and/or “stand” will be introduced.

Set Up

• A quiet location with limited distractions
• Puppy off leash
• A nonskid surface
• Several treats
• Paw pad

Procedure

1. Review standing on the paw pad, as done in previous weeks.
2. With the puppy in heel position standing on the paw pad, you will now lure him into the sit. Hold the kibble under your thumb with your palm flat. Slowly raise your hand up and slightly forward away from the puppy’s nose. The puppy should naturally follow the lure and bring his back feet forward into the sit position. Release the treat when the puppy sits. Because the lure is used, the marker word is not.
3. Once in the sit position, rapidly reward for 10 seconds. If puppy breaks the sit, stop the rewards.
4. After 10 seconds of rewarding in the sit position stop the rewards and wait for puppy to offer a stand. If the puppy does not stand, lure him into a stand.
5. Work on lengthening duration in the sit position by increasing the time between rewards.

Steps for Introducing Stand Hand Cue

1. The handler uses their right hand in a vertical position with fingers pointing to the left of the puppy, and kibble in their palm secured with their thumb.
2. Slowly move your hand 2 inches forward, away from the puppy’s nose, encouraging the puppy to stand. The puppy’s front feet must remain on the paw pad while the back feet move into the stand position.
3. Replace the lure with the verbal cue “stand” before giving the hand cue.

Goal

Puppy learns the down position by moving their front feet forward.

Set Up

• Paw Pad will not be used for introduction to down
• A non-skid surface
• Puppy off leash
• Bait bag with several treats

Procedure

1. The puppy may need to be in front of the handler for ease of teaching the down position. The handler might find it easier to kneel or crouch when teaching the down.  
2. With the puppy in sit position and multiple pieces of kibble in your hand, get the puppy’s attention with the food. The lure needs to be kept on the puppy's nose so the puppy can follow it.
3. Slowly move your hand in a straight line to the floor. As the puppy lowers his body, reward him. (If the lure is too far in front of the puppy, he will stand to reach the kibble. If the lure is moved too fast, the puppy won’t be able to follow the lure.)
4. Once the puppy is in the down position, many treats should be given in rapid succession.
5. After 10 seconds, lure back up into a sit, so that the process of the down position can be repeated.
6. Once the puppy has had multiple successes of foundational down from the sit position, the puppy should be lured into a down position from a stand.
7. The down hand cue can be introduced once the puppy has had several successful sessions of going into the down from a sit and stand positions. The hand cue is done with the right hand, flat palm facing down in a downward motion. Kibble can be tucked under the thumb for the first initial hand signals.

Goal

Puppy chooses to ignore a variety of distractions by keeping a loose leash, engaging with the handler and thereby showing an understanding of impulse control.

The session will allow for the handler to practice applying fixed pressure, marking and rewarding the puppy for choosing to make a right decision. Duration of time between distraction being presented and rewarded will slowly be increased as success warrants.

Set Up

• Quiet controlled environment
• Suitable distractions
• Puppy on leash

Procedure

1. The handler stands holding the puppy on the leash. The leash needs to be short enough so the puppy feels pressure if he moves away from the handler, but long enough that the collar will be loose when the puppy stands next to the handler, (about 2 feet in length). Position is not important for this exercise.
2. The handler must stay in a stationary position with the leash tethered to their left leg in a position level with the puppy’s neck. If you have a small puppy, you will need to bend over.  

Mark and reward the puppy for the following behavior.

• Puppy stops pulling on the leash (increase duration between marks)
• Puppy notices distraction but chooses not to pull towards it.
• Puppy looks at the handler when distraction is present. Rewards should be delivered close to the handler’s leg to help the puppy feel the loose collar.  
• If the puppy tries to pull away from the ground tether, wait for the puppy to release the pressure, then immediately mark and reward. Once the puppy is choosing to fully loosen collar, handler should only mark a fully loose leash and collar.
• Area Leader or assistant places a small distraction (a few kibbles) on the floor outside of the puppy’s reach. This distraction is enough to make the puppy pull but not excited. As soon as the puppy releases the pressure, immediately mark and reward the puppy. If the puppy remains with a loose collar, continue to reward him intermittently. Keep going until the puppy shows understanding of loose leash. Once the puppy consistently offers a loose leash in the presence of small distractions, increase the level of distractions (e.g., leaves, sticks, toilet paper, socks, high value food, etc.)

Goal

Puppy is calm and relaxed while being physically touched on every inch of body.  

Why

Puppy is comfortable being handled.

Set up

• Puppy off leash

Procedure

1. Sit down and have your puppy between your legs. Slow long strokes will calm the puppy.
2. Start at the head. Massage their gums and teeth.  
3. Nose: touch it.
4. Eyes: look at them, gently touch around them.  
5. Ears: massage, smell, and place fingers in them.  
6. Massage down the puppy’s neck.  
7. Front legs: Hold each leg out at the elbow (this is practice for blood draws). Feel and massage their toes and feet while their legs are stretched out.
8. Gently roll the puppy onto their side.
9. Massage puppy’s body and back.
10. Stroke the puppy's belly.
11. Back leg: Massage one back leg, toes, and feet.  
12. Roll the puppy to the other side.  
13. Massage their body and back.  
14. Massage the other back leg, toes, and feet.  
15. Feel all the way down the tail.  
16. Calmly release the puppy to get up.  

Goal

Puppy is able to move into the sit, down, or stand positions when cued by the handler while keeping front feet on the paw pad.

Prerequisite

• The puppy needs to be able to maintain a stand and/or sit position on the paw pad for 10-20 seconds, without food rewards, while the handler changes positions.
• The puppy must understand the foundational down position.
• The raiser must know all the hand and verbal cues that go along with each position.

Set Up

• A quiet location
• Paw pad against a wall, but not so close that the puppy is able to lean on the wall
• The verbal cue for down will be introduced once the puppy is moving easily into the down position on the paw pad. Luring the down at this stage will be used because the location of the puppy will be different from when he was first introduced to the down position.

Procedure

1. The handler places the paw pad on the floor and stands beside it. The puppy should automatically assume the standing position on the paw pad. Mark and reward.
2. With hand and verbal cue, direct the puppy to sit. Mark and reward.  
3. The handler lures the puppy into the down position. The lure might only be needed a few times before the puppy understands that the down position is at the handler’s side. The puppy’s elbows or chest will be on the paw pad.
4. Once the puppy is in the down position, reward the puppy in rapid succession to keep him in the position. The left hand can deliver more kibble to the right to ensure the puppy stays in position until given another cue.
5. After 5-10 seconds of being in the down position, the handler cues the puppy into the sit position. The handler might need to bend over to give the hand cue at the puppy’s level. Mark and reward.
6. Start sequence over, slowly increasing the time between rewards, to work on duration.
7. Once the puppy is able to maintain the down position for 10-20 seconds with the handler standing up between rewards, cue the puppy to stand. Mark and reward. After 10-20 seconds of standing, cue to down position again, and repeat the sequence.
8. The puppy should be able to move through the 3 positions randomly. Focus on any areas of difficulty while practicing.
9. It is important that the puppy NOT be rewarded if he changes position without being cued.

Goal

Correct an undesired or un-cued behavior.

Prerequisite

Puppy has mastered sit, stand, and down positions on the paw pad.

Procedure

• During training, puppies will make mistakes or offer unwanted behaviors
• If the puppy breaks a position, a time out should be applied.
• The handler immediately turns away from the puppy, disengages, and becomes silent for 5-10 seconds. Once time has passed, the handler returns to his/her position beside the paw pad and reengages with the puppy by cuing the puppy into another position. The puppy must be successful upon reengagement; therefore, cue an easy position.  
• Session may end once the puppy has been successful.

Goal

Positively teach the puppy to hold a position for a designated length of time.

• Distance: Handler’s position relative to the puppy. (Near, Far)
• Duration: How long the puppy must hold his position without a reward. (2 - 10 seconds)
• Distraction: Outside influences that capture the puppy’s attention. (Handler movement, dogs, people, food)

Procedure

1. One element should be worked on at a time. If focusing on duration, do not change distance or distraction.
2. Handler movement is considered a distraction, as are real life distractions. Always start with handler movement as the first distraction, then work toward real life distractions at a distance where the puppy will be successful.
3. Once the puppy has been successful with positive reinforcement with distraction, the distance between the puppy and distraction can be decreased. Set the puppy up for success!
4. Slowly increase the distance by one half step at a time. When adding distance, the duration that the puppy is expected to hold must be decreased. If the puppy moves to you, the distance is too great. Take a step back to where the puppy was successful. Building a solid foundation at a slow pace will result in a reliable happy puppy. Your puppy’s success is always the goal and focus.

The verbal cue is used only after the puppy can remain in any position (sit, down, stand) for 20 seconds, with the handler 6-10 feet away.

Procedure

1. Handler cues puppy into a position.
2. Before the handler leaves the puppy’s side, handler softly says “stay.” The hand cue for stay will come later, because all hand cues so far have been associated with movement.

Goal

Puppy moves into the sit, down, or stand position when the verbal cue is given.

Procedure

1. The verbal cues are to be given BEFORE the hand cue is given to the puppy. When the puppy moves into position, the handler marks and rewards.
2. After several repetitions of giving both the verbal and hand cue, give the verbal cue without the hand cue and wait for the puppy to move into the position. Mark and reward the puppy when he goes into the position.
3. If the puppy doesn’t respond to the verbal cue after several repetitions of  both the verbal and hand cue, give the puppy a few more repetitions of both, then try again with the verbal cue only.

Goal

Puppy learns to have impulse control, maintain focus on the handler, and keeps a loose leash while in motion.

Prerequisite

Handler understands what tethering the leash to their leg is.

Set Up

• Quiet location with distractions present but under handler and assistant control
• Leash being held at a length where puppy can make good or bad choices (12-18 inches of leash)
• Bait bag with plenty of food rewards
• Distractions such as leaves, sticks, toilet paper, food, people

Procedure

1. Distractions are presented to entice the puppy, but not to be so enticing that the puppy cannot be successful in maintaining a loose leash.
2. Criteria for marking and rewards
3. The puppy maintains a loose leash
4. The puppy moves with the handler; each step is to be marked and rewarded
5. The puppy sees a distraction but chooses not to engage.
6. The puppy engages the handler by looking at them when approaching a distraction.
7. The handler and the puppy take one step at a time, with the handler rewarding the puppy for the above behaviors. You must reward the puppy in heel position.
8. The handler should slowly increase the number of steps between marks and rewards. Single steps turn into two steps, three steps, etc.
9. If the puppy chooses to engage in a distraction, the handler tethers the leash to their left leg, applying fixed pressure, and waits for the puppy to release the tension. If the puppy looks like it can reach the distraction, handler may back up a step or two while keeping the leash tethered to the left leg. Puppy should never be successful at getting the distraction.

Note

If the puppy is unsuccessful, the distraction level is too high, or the puppy doesn’t understand fixed pressure. The puppy may need more repetitions at stationary tethering or a lower level of distraction.

What’s Next?

Once the puppy is maintaining a loose leash with slow walking, increase pace to a more normal pace. Any time the puppy is on leash, the hand tether must be used as soon as the puppy chooses to engage in a distraction or pulling. The puppy will be confused if the handler is not consistent!

Goal

Puppy is calm and relaxed while being physically touched on every inch of body.  

Why

Puppy is comfortable being handled.

Set up

• Puppy off leash

Procedure

1. Sit down and have your puppy between your legs. Slow long strokes will calm the puppy.
2. Start at the head. Massage their gums and teeth.  
3. Nose: touch it.
4. Eyes: look at them, gently touch around them.  
5. Ears: massage, smell, and place fingers in them.  
6. Massage down the puppy’s neck.  
7. Front legs: Hold each leg out at the elbow (this is practice for blood draws). Feel and massage their toes and feet while their legs are stretched out.
8. Gently roll the puppy onto their side.
9. Massage puppy’s body and back.
10. Stroke the puppy's belly.
11. Back leg: Massage one back leg, toes, and feet.  
12. Roll the puppy to the other side.  
13. Massage their body and back.  
14. Massage the other back leg, toes, and feet.  
15. Feel all the way down the tail.  
16. Calmly release the puppy to get up.  

Class may not run for an hour and a half due to the amount of distraction and level of concentration. This is a class to prepare the raiser for regular meetings, and how to approach any situation. This will also demonstrate to the raiser that some situations are too much for the puppy. Ending the outing is okay, and repeat exposures might be necessary. The puppy is the focus, and not just along for the ride. No matter what the raiser is intending to do while training, the puppy must be the focus.

Area Leader/Puppy Kindergarten Teacher should scope out a location where there are real life distractions that will challenge the puppy but ensure success. Start class the moment each puppy gets out of the car.

Goal

Puppy always demonstrates impulse control. Being out in the community gives the raiser practice with an experienced person to coach them through situations and answer any questions the raiser may have.

Set Up

• The puppy must have completed the first 5 weeks of kindergarten class
• The puppy demonstrates an understanding of all behaviors taught in class
• The handler must be confident and understand all protocols

Procedure

1. Place paw pad close to the car, before removing the puppy.
2. Get the puppy out of the car and immediately walk the puppy into position on the paw pad.
3. Mark and reward for standing calmly on the paw pad.
4. After several marks and rewards for calm behavior, start cuing puppy into other positions such as sit and down. This will set the tone for what is expected of a calm and focused puppy.
5. When the puppy is successful at moving into several positions near the car, pick up the paw pad and move closer to distractions. Keep in mind that success is key and short distances are crucial.
6. Mark and reward puppy for calm behavior several times then start cuing for other positions.
7. If the puppy is unable to remain calm and demonstrate various positions, retreat to where the last successes were achieved and repeat steps.
8. If the puppy is successful, continue moving short distances closer to distractions.
9. If the puppy cannot remain calm and focused, the session should end and the puppy should go home to work on impulse control with less distraction.
10. Some puppies may not leave the parking lot and that is okay. The raiser should be accepting of the puppy’s successes and limitations.
11. Raisers should work on approach at all meetings. They may need to spend the next month working on approaching all the distractions that occur at a meeting and may not get into the actual meeting. Puppies should be calm and focused at all meetings.
12. The puppy must be successful! There is no point in pushing beyond the puppy’s limits. If the handler becomes frustrated, embarrassed, or in any way discombobulated, the puppy will feed off it. The raiser must remain calm!